It was on 6 Nov'05, on my way back to New Delhi after celebrating Deepawali at home, that I got a chance to visit the capital city of Gujarat. Midway through my trip, I started scribbing these notes while waiting for my lunch to be served at a restaurant and completed them on board the flight to New Delhi. Look what I found there....amalgamation of old traditions, art, architecture, religion, rhetoric. Everything existing in the same plane... fast and slow, ancient and modern...past, present and future...Just opposite to Sabarmati Ashram (Image 1), again I am enjoying 
myself on this lonely sojourn. I could have taken full night’s sleep and arrive in Ahemdabad just in time to catch the flight at 2200hrs but I would rather try to stick to my ’different from other’ trait and so I was up at 0130 hrs, boarded the bus to Surat and then into the jam packed train to reach AMD at 1030hrs and make ‘use’ of this Sunday.
And here I am, after visiting two step wells, Baoli’s (Baori in Rajasthan), one in AMD –Dadahari Vav and the second one somewhat more preserved at Adalaz. These step wells were constructed during 1501 AD and 1499 AD respectively. These stepwells were magnificent work of art and architecture. The ornate pillars stood the testimony of time and has preserved the history of past 4-5 centuries albeit institutional neglect. If nothing, these grandeur structures could provide to the government, at least they are trusted havens for some sort of BioDiversity—wasps, insects, bats and lizards. I began my day visiting these vavs and I must say that I wasn’t disappointed.
Once I finished my visit to Adalaj, I headed for Sabarmati Ashram. The workplace /activity centre of Mahatma Gandhi. The visit could not be recorded as anything spectacular but it did gave me an opportunity to delve a little deeper into the life, work and philosophy of a great man. Before visiting the Ashram I had lunch at Toran Restaurant which was good for taste and fulsome.
I opted to hire an autorickshaw to reach Ahmed shah’s Mosque. On our way we passed through Elliss Bridge, an abandoned bridge that was constructed by British in the popular style by using broad steel girders. The traffic these days is carried by the adjacent parallel bridge constructed much later.
The latter part of evening consisted of visits to the mosque, which are superb creations out of hard rock, which appeared to me as granite. Although I am technically unsound, unaware of the trivialities and intricacies of the style of architecture but as an layman I totally relished what my eyes sumptuously devoured and I feel I had that feeling of satisfaction which is seldom experienced in this strikingly fast changing world.
All the rest of the day I flipped the pages of Lonely Planet guide and hopped from one place to other as suggested there. Everywhere, I was amazed not by the religiousness of a place but the other elements in the design and construction of the mosque/ temple that captured the thoughts/ides characteristic of that time or the patron of the creation and is so exquisitely modelled to survive the tides of time with all the perseverance of the labourers of that time.
It is however pathetic that now a days no one really pays much attention or finds important these edicts of religion, philosophy, love which still stands all the challenges of time and changing political scenarios/civilization.
Squirming my way through the bylanes of Ahemdabad, a sort of busy city where people just love to enjoy their freedom on the streets. After following the backdoor of Swami Narayana temple, I stepped into a city that was certainly more than 100 years old. Now these old age constructions house the modern age creatures with the ultra modern sensibilities. While passing through that area a thought came to my mind that if there were survey to find out a city with highest density of temples and deities, Ahemdabad could well figure out at the top of the list.
Another interesting thing that caught my attention was this very old lady, sitting in front of her single room residence (I prefer not to call it house). The doors, left azar, provided an inside view. Just the basic amenities one needs for survival. But I spotted something that struck to me as an oddity, there was this old huge wall clock hanging on the front wall. This lady was still holding on to the time!!!
myself on this lonely sojourn. I could have taken full night’s sleep and arrive in Ahemdabad just in time to catch the flight at 2200hrs but I would rather try to stick to my ’different from other’ trait and so I was up at 0130 hrs, boarded the bus to Surat and then into the jam packed train to reach AMD at 1030hrs and make ‘use’ of this Sunday.And here I am, after visiting two step wells, Baoli’s (Baori in Rajasthan), one in AMD –Dadahari Vav and the second one somewhat more preserved at Adalaz. These step wells were constructed during 1501 AD and 1499 AD respectively. These stepwells were magnificent work of art and architecture. The ornate pillars stood the testimony of time and has preserved the history of past 4-5 centuries albeit institutional neglect. If nothing, these grandeur structures could provide to the government, at least they are trusted havens for some sort of BioDiversity—wasps, insects, bats and lizards. I began my day visiting these vavs and I must say that I wasn’t disappointed.
Once I finished my visit to Adalaj, I headed for Sabarmati Ashram. The workplace /activity centre of Mahatma Gandhi. The visit could not be recorded as anything spectacular but it did gave me an opportunity to delve a little deeper into the life, work and philosophy of a great man. Before visiting the Ashram I had lunch at Toran Restaurant which was good for taste and fulsome.
I opted to hire an autorickshaw to reach Ahmed shah’s Mosque. On our way we passed through Elliss Bridge, an abandoned bridge that was constructed by British in the popular style by using broad steel girders. The traffic these days is carried by the adjacent parallel bridge constructed much later.
The latter part of evening consisted of visits to the mosque, which are superb creations out of hard rock, which appeared to me as granite. Although I am technically unsound, unaware of the trivialities and intricacies of the style of architecture but as an layman I totally relished what my eyes sumptuously devoured and I feel I had that feeling of satisfaction which is seldom experienced in this strikingly fast changing world.
All the rest of the day I flipped the pages of Lonely Planet guide and hopped from one place to other as suggested there. Everywhere, I was amazed not by the religiousness of a place but the other elements in the design and construction of the mosque/ temple that captured the thoughts/ides characteristic of that time or the patron of the creation and is so exquisitely modelled to survive the tides of time with all the perseverance of the labourers of that time.
It is however pathetic that now a days no one really pays much attention or finds important these edicts of religion, philosophy, love which still stands all the challenges of time and changing political scenarios/civilization.
Squirming my way through the bylanes of Ahemdabad, a sort of busy city where people just love to enjoy their freedom on the streets. After following the backdoor of Swami Narayana temple, I stepped into a city that was certainly more than 100 years old. Now these old age constructions house the modern age creatures with the ultra modern sensibilities. While passing through that area a thought came to my mind that if there were survey to find out a city with highest density of temples and deities, Ahemdabad could well figure out at the top of the list.
Another interesting thing that caught my attention was this very old lady, sitting in front of her single room residence (I prefer not to call it house). The doors, left azar, provided an inside view. Just the basic amenities one needs for survival. But I spotted something that struck to me as an oddity, there was this old huge wall clock hanging on the front wall. This lady was still holding on to the time!!!
1 comment:
Neat and elaborate account of Ahmedabad. my sojourn with the city had just started and should be covering all those which found mention in your blog..And i'm just reminded of our trips in bhopal where i've imbibed the skills of observation and interpretation of minute details of a place from u there.. Nahar
Post a Comment