It was the 30th day of Aug’05 and precisely 30th day of my joining WWF, when I heard an announcement -Welcome aboard Trivendrum Rajdhani Express, Train No 2432, departing from Hazrat Nizamuddin to Trivendrum. I was overzealous and thrilled about it, my second journey to the Malabar Coast and to one of the biodiversity hot-spots in the country.
I felt a wave of respite when I entered the cooler confines of the air conditioned train compartment. It was the beginning of a long journey, the journey to ‘God’s Own Country’- Kerala. This journey is my first official trip, a trip during which I am not only representing WWF but also carrying an official agenda, a mission at the back of my mind and huge expectations from my employers. However, I am sure that this would not make my trip any way less enjoyable. In fact I perceive this as an opportunity to visit, interact and eventually know more about my own field of interest- Biodiversity Conservation along with satisfying my own exploratory quest.
The journey, which initially appeared to be long 45 hrs passed much easily and comfortably, many thanks to the catering staff that fed us tasty and fresh foods, although they were sort of ran out of any variety. One more interesting revelation occurred to me, 60- 70 percent of the travellers on board were, like myself, on official tour. I am not sure what hidden agendas they were carrying but undoubtedly everyone seems to be on the same boat as far as enjoying the journey on employer’s expense is concerned.
As train pulled in the Trivendrum station on 1st Sept, I kind of thanked almighty who enabled me for this country wide north-south journey, from majestic peaks of Ladakh to the magnificent seashore of the Kanyakumari, in a short span of two months! A journey of whooping five thousand kilometres on land through this beautiful and diverse country where landscapes’ transition is so swift and magical that one is filled with awe and wonder. I really feel blessed and fortunate to have this opportunity to roam around so frequently, a vocation, which for me is no different from a vacation. I some times visualises myself as a river, flowing lonely, for whom the direction stands immaterial, only slope decides its course while it connects places, meets people, touches many lives, nourishes dreams, instigates hope and shelters if not satiates the unquenched souls.
First day (1 Sept’05) at Trivendrum was just very normal, I managed to settle in comfortably and meet the local staff of WWF state office here. People seem to be nice and friendly. Official work appeared to be progressing gently which can only be confirmed until I meet the forest officials. I feel an air of freedom and relaxed attitude of the officials here. Much different than what I was expecting. Comparatively small staff runs WWF office in Trivendrum. During this visit a number of questions came to my mind regarding its way of functioning and the overall productivity. It was beyond all my contemplation to see if this place does anything in true sense that would benefit biodiversity. Education is undoubtedly a major issue and compliments immensely to the actual conservation practice on ground but ironically what it produces are few enthusiastic nature loving volunteers who seldom rise above the idea of biodiversity conservation as a catchy and sexy hobby!
Second day (2nd Sept’05) passed with meeting some high-level forest officials, explaining to them why I am here for and what is it that I wish to do. I could not count this as a productive day as I was not able to convince Mr. Gopinathan, CCF about conducting the workshops or may be he was unwilling to give in for any personal reasons, what ever… I should not count this as a very productive day as I returned from Forest Department HQ with the unfinished agenda.
Evening turned to be most interesting part of the day as Siva took me to meet Mr. N. G. Nair, an ex-planning commission member. He was a highly talkative fellow but of those whom I can enjoy. A real life collection of incidents, anecdotes, experiences which he narrates with the typical satirical connotation for the changing world of trends and societal transformations. Most interesting part is the way he puts forth things, I think he has been well trained in all this during his tenure at various Govt. offices that makes issues sound intriguing. His complaints are so well concealed that it never pinches. More over, the fact that begets him full points is the number of career shifts he has made in his life. Started off from hostel warden in the Shanti Niketan, he joined Botanical Survey of India (BSI) and was then research assistant, posted in the Andamans and Nicobars for a length of 7 odd years, a period more than sufficient for imbibing a culture how so ever foreign it may appear initially, and for this person who mingles with people just as water goes in with whisky, his transformation have been inevitable. But with the stroke of luck he returned to mainland India and served in different state and central offices and then to planning commission. He is one interesting fellow who at this age can give you a good company, if you are willing to listen without applying your reasoning.
3rd Sept, my third day, began quite early when I set out to meet Nahar’s sister, Shahina. (I first met Nahar in Bhopal and since then we share good friendship). The meeting turned out to be an interesting small chat touching upon all the aspects of life. I am now wondering how fast and easily we, kind of, opened up and had an insight into each others’ life through the small window of time. I found her very sharp and much confident, with a decided aim what she wants to achieve and more so, how to go about it. I found her quite dissimilar to Nahar.
After humble beginnings the day just hurled down fast hours when I visited Forest office to collect the authority letters for visiting the PAs. Later with Mr. Siva Kumar (WWF State office Personnel) and Varun (WWF volunteer and my interpreter), the program was finalised and vehicle was fixed.
I left the place at around 4 pm as I could listen ‘Sea’ calling me. I made my way towards Kovalam beach, a popular place for tourists and a beautiful place to say good-bye to setting sun. However, I found them missing, tourists as well as the Sun. The sun was totally masked by the clouds and I was a little disappointed for losing opportunity for capturing the setting sun but with an impressive Light house at the backdrop I did managed to have a couple of nice frames. (Pic 1)
Perched on a cliff, little higher above, I saw waves breaking on the rocks and literally vanishing when they stroked upon the dark boulders with immense force. Even in this hyper-energized transformation, calmness and cool prevailed in the form of white surf and sea spray. What was earlier a mighty wave got transformed into a soothing breeze over burdened with fine mist. This entered somewhere deep in me I felt that the surge that has been building inside me for past few weeks has started dissembling. Soon it will be as minute as those cool and calm droplets, which might quench both souls and lead towards serenity.
After coming back to the Trivendrum city, I went to meet my father’s old friend. He was kind enough to spare some time during the busy Onam festive season. A nostalgic wave struck him when he suddenly reached back 30-35 years and described his college days with my father. After this brief meeting I came back to the room and got busy with the preparations for next day’s visit to PAs with full hope to have a good learning experience from this visit and to bring home some interesting results effectively.
4th Sept, 05, the car was right there at the door-steps punctual on time at 6 am and I was all prepared to begin the journey with full enthusiasm and excitement (Pic 2). It was a new Tata Indica, an indigenously built small friendly car. Journey was to be a long 250 km up to Thekkady, as Periyar Tiger Reserve (PTR) was to be our first destination. Moving smoothly traversing the green landscape of Kerala, I for the first time realised that there is much to be seen in Kerala than just beaches and coconut trees.
Well managed and properly maintained rubber (Pic. 3) and coffee plantations dominated the scenery, particularly as we ascended a little towards the southern reaches of the Western Ghats, the road sides were
increasingly dotted by them. At some point when we entered in the Western Ghats region there was a stretch of Tea Estates flanking the road. It was indeed a breathtaking moment for me as the bright green apices of tea bushes gave a look of enlightened valley. Like tea, this greenery was truly addictive and stimulating. The patterns formed off the small passages built in the bushes to enable the plucking of leaves complimented the overall matrix of the region and was not less than a feast for the eyes. It was a sort of enigmatic maze created by the shades of green and a hidden message waited deciphering.
Taking moments off for the picturesque frames and beautiful natural landscapes, we reached Thekkady at around 4 pm. Initially encountering some setbacks in locating the wardens and arranging for our accommodations officially (the cheapest option) we finally settled in a cosy and comfortable home stay, Mickey Cottage. Soon, Varun and myself were out for a walk in the Protected Area (PA). We walked upto the boat landing site, from where the tourists enjoy a boat ride and have a glimpse of the beautiful forest and its wild flora and fauna. We managed to spot some birds and hear calls in the way. Its been raining all over the way but that could not deter us, the nature lovers, from getting exposed to the wildlife in as much proportion as one could possibly have.
We spotted Nilgiri Langur, Spotted Dove, Blue Winged Parakeet, Lesser Golden Backed Woodpecker, Hill Myna, Jungle Barbler, Malabar Grey Hornbill, etc.
All over the way I enjoyed listening to the stories from Varun about his earlier experiences in the nature camps and how he is reminded of his earlier visits to this place, which has been totally different from this visit. I feel so lucky to have him as a companion as his interest, dedication, and experience coupled with the through field knowledge has made his company truly rewarding. I realise that I would be learning much from him in this period of ten days and hopefully, as he says, he should be contended about learning an another aspect of biodiversity conservations and management when he goes home. A good learning exercise for both of us, in short!
I came back to room after fixing meeting with Mr. Pramod G. Krishnan, Deputy Director, PTR and having small dinner at Ambadi resort. I tried to read for some time but was tempted to watch Television which kept me awake until late and when finally I succumbed to my tiredness, it was ten minutes short of 2am.
5 Sept’05, Teacher’s Day, We were right there, at 8 am, at the residence of Mr. Pramod ready with the RAPPAM questionnaire to be filled in by him. And as planned we managed to get the work done in due time and with full participation and through engagement of Mr. Pramod. His attitude was really appreciable as the warmth and promptness he showed in helping out us was somewhat an exception, or it appeared so to me.
Leaving his residence, I had somewhere a sense of accomplishment but not without an air of admiration for the park manager. I was quite amazed to see the officer’s attitude towards his job, towards his people and towards the park as a whole, undoubtedly Periyar seems to possess everything to set example for others, in the country and abroad. We rushed for breakfast and then to the favoured boat ride at the Periyar reservoir. The weather was not the best one would ask for good wildlife sightings, neither the time was apt for bird sightings but with all positive feelings we preceded. And after enjoying a good nourishment to the soul, due to thick evergreen forests at both sides, clear water beneath with old decaying tree stumps impressively protruding over its surface and the over burdened sky above, we somehow managed good sightings!
Birds: Red Whiskered Bulbul, Woolly Necked Stork, Spotted Dove, Small Green Barbet, Brahmany Kite, Crested Serpent Eagle, Little Grebe, Pond Heron, Little Cormorant (Pic 4)
, Giant Cormorant, Large Wood Shrike, White Breasted Kingfisher, Ashy Wood Swallow, Small Blue Kingfisher, Large Pied Wagtail, Grey Heron, Chestnut Headed Bee Eater, Jungle Crow.
Mammals: Wild Boar, Sambhar, Bonnet Macaque, Otter, Rat Snake, Chequered Keelback, Malabar Giant Squirrel.
Whether it was mere a coincidence or something else I am not sure, but I had my first sighting of an otter in the wild here. This is something what I asked Varun to happen just before the beginning of the boat ride. In this regard my trip has been well rewarded and productive. After this boat trip we met with the three Assistant Wildlife Wardens (AWW) of PTR and got one of the questionnaires filled with their help. The interaction with them was indeed pleasing and their involvement in the exercise was clearly visible. ‘This is again the speciality of PTR’, one of them very rightly pointed and I don’t have any second opinion about it.
Returning from the PTR with the two sets of Questionnaire filled, I was happy, for it could well be termed as a good beginning. We left Thekkady at 4 pm for Munnar, our next destination, where we would visit Eravikulam NP. The rain followed us all over the long journey. We had a flat tyre some way near 9pm and there I enjoyed a break journey for 30 minutes in a truly bollywood sense, lonely road, amidst a jungle, flat tyre, heavy rains and we have to reach the next place before it gets very late. Finally this story had a happy ending when we reached Munnar at 1 am and managed a place in Forest Education Centre Dormitory to sleep for the rest of the night and to wake up to a surprise next morning. A landscape dominated by the Nilgiris (Eucalyptus) and the beautiful Tea estates around.
6 Sept’ 05, Munnar (Malayalam = Three Rivers). It was cold outside and inside as well. Waking up at Forest Dormitory has not really made any surprise to me, particularly as the location of dormitory was so chosen to have any great view of tea estates or green lush vegetation impossible, nevertheless the morning somewhere looked like the adjacent photo. (Pic 5)
After having breakfast we headed for Mattuppetty Dam. The reservoir was almost full to its capacity and it was strange to not find any kind of sluice gates or overflow channels. Although there was nothing much to see except the reservoir, however I for the first time saw, Woollen (thermal) caps selling like hot cakes at just Rs10/- each. Again the question bounced in my mind, how do these manufacturers and other members in the distribution chain handle the business at such low margins?
The dam was quite old, constructed somewhere in 1950s. I found almost nothing to register a long lasting impression in my memory. Moreover as I quipped later, that the sheer idea of damming the river, stopping its flow, making it to halt whose religion has always been to move ahead, is just a little disagreeable to me.
Had it not been for the spectacular sights of tea estates and plantations, I would have always regretted the time wasted for visiting the dam. We actually had a good glimpse of what can truly be called a beautiful tea country. (Pic 6)
Meeting Mr. Roy P. Thomas, Wildlife Warden of Eravikulam National Park (ENP), Chinnar and 3 newly established PAs representing Shola ecosystems (Tamil Sholay = Shade), was fruitful and he fixed up a meeting in the evening. Realising that the whole day is with us, we decided to leave to visit ENP and to have a glimpse of Nilgiri Tahr (Hemitragus hylocrius) in its natural habitat.
Although rain has very modestly decided to stay with me during the whole day I was not quite in a mood to enjoy it, particularly while visiting these NPs I don’t feel it’s a good idea to have rain as your companion. However the rain continuously poured while I walked down the road, which according to Mr. Roy has the distinction for most heavily traversed path in the country, I felt that I am not just being drenched from outside but somewhere my internal thirst is also being quenched.
ENP has 90% of its area covered with grassland ecosystem while the rest 10 % are the patches of Shola vegetation. Another characteristic feature of ENP is the presence of a shrub Neelakurinji (Phlebophyllum kunthiamum) that has a 12 year cycle for mass flowering. This flowering is due for the next year and I felt a great sense of enthusiasm to have visited ENP so close to the flowering time but still not at the right time. I sensed a rising urge to visit this area again when the flowers are in full bloom.
Before we returned I had my first sighting of Nilgiri Tahr. Although standing at a distance, the mother and calf looked impressive, more so as the falling rain has created a mist like environment, which definitely has a complimenting effect on these enigmatic wild animals. I do saw many green patches of shola vegetation filling up the depression of the valleys in the predominantly montane grassland ecosystem. Varun explained to me that these thick patches of vegetation are a result of a thousand years of natural process going on incessantly. These patches harbour many species of flora and fauna of which majority are endemic, reflecting the degree of speciation these species has undergone over time. These ecosystems are however the least studied ecosystems and a lot of mystery revolves around the exact theory of their formation and the overall processes going on in these ecosystems.
After visiting the park I took some time and explored the interpretation centre at Wildlife Warden’s Office. I was very much impressed with the quality, content and the display of information regarding the Park. It was clearly visible that some intelligent fellows have worked sincerely to give its present shape and the outcome of these efforts is highly commendable. I later discovered that this project was completed with the technical collaboration of National Institute of Design (NID), Ahemdabad.
Later at evening, as promised, Mr Thomas patiently listened to me and helped in filling up on the RAPPAM methodology questionnaires. He was excited and enthusiastic about ENP and definitely held a great pride for being the in charge of this park. His sense of responsibility and possessiveness about ENP could not be better understood than the fact that during our conversation he referred ENP as ‘his park’. He had plans for improving upon the visitor facilities and tourist management. He was keen to market his park and hinted that plans are underway for such activities. I comfortably felt a similar reverberation at my heart as I also feel that conservation should not be heeded as a burden but should be marketed as a commodity and that too, a cherished one. People should draw a sense of satisfaction after paying for improving and promising a better and diversified life for the posterity. Coming back from warden’s office I resorted to sleep in the cooler environs of the Forest Education Centre Dormitory while the outside air was cooler still!
7 Sept’ 05. As the darkness melted with the dawn of new day, I knew it would be a day full of travelling, may be around 300 km of journey from Munnar to Mavoor, where I would be visiting after exactly 6 years. I last visited Abba’s (My childhood friend) house to attend Simmi Didi’s marriage in Sept, 1999 and now exactly after 6 years I was to meet her two sweet kids.
We started off early and while passing through the Marayoor forest range, I witnessed India’s largest sandalwood reserve, almost intact. It was some-what very relaxing to see that somewhere lies the national treasure well protected, particularly as sandalwood has been a subject of my personal interest since I have done an essay on sandalwood smuggling during my masters at JNU. We were informed that in close vicinity lies some very old structures (may be from Mesolithic era), sort of basic shelters, where hermits used to meditate. These structures, known as ‘Dolmens’, were made of rock slates arranged to form a cubicle, which provided just a very basic hide lacking any sophistication. Interestingly these Dolmens were warm inside even on the top of rocky hills, where the winds are usually chilly. Leaving behind these shelters to rest in peace, as we advanced further I realised that my camera is not having a good time. After having operated it in rain, I understood now its time to bear a huge price for my boldness or rather foolishness. It became very clear to me that now I will not have any memories of the rest of the trip and places we are visiting.
Rest of the journey was nothing more than the curves and bends of road and manoeuvring through the traffic and heavy bouts of showers. Mohan Mama (Abba’s Uncle) called and met us in the way to escort us comfortably to ‘Palakkat House’.
I had a strange feeling of home-coming when I reached Abba’s home. We managed to reach there before it was dark and were greeted by uncle and granny. Granny was on bed as she got her ankle fractured while uncle was sitting in the porch on a chair. I quickly noticed that the passage of time has inflicted permanent mark upon his health. He was quite weak and feeble but still I could see his eagerness to know and abridge himself about the places and people whom he has been associated with earlier. As Aunty has gone somewhere and Soni has not arrived from Calicut, the house appeared very empty and I was getting impatient to talk and enquire about everyone whom I met in this very house six years ago, which was then a bustling energetic place and a centre of activities, truly a house of marriage. Soon Soni arrived, and I was refreshed and energised after meeting her. We began talking so very openly without a slight hint of formality as if the ensued time or distance has had no affect on us. I was eager to know about everyone and she was just telling me all the stories. When aunty came I felt as if my trip is now complete, mission accomplished! She has not changed much, fully energetic, caring and in control of things. She got busy in preparing food and other similar stuff and we had little time to talk but as if we both were enjoying the fact that I am there and we will have some little time together. In night after having sumptuous and filling meals, we all got piqued to my computer and went through the slide show of my past 2 years’ memories. I was, as usual, narrating them the stories that complimented the photographs, enjoying the moments as if passing through them once again. The date counter in watches have long advanced to next date when we went to bed realising that getting up next day is going to be an ordeal.
8 Sept’05, Leaving Abba’s home early morning, I didn’t have a slightest doubt that albeit being short, this meeting has refreshed all those previous memories and definitely strengthened the belief that I will be coming here again. Soon as car advanced and acquired a rhythmic pace, I went surfing to the other world and woke up only when the car halted at Mananthavady, where we met two of Varun’s friends, Shaneesh and Vinayan. Here I have to meet 3 Assistant Wildlife Wardens of Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary. The day has nothing much to record except the fact that I was able to meet two of them and get the questionnaires filled. The day passed talking about the various issues pertaining to forests, biodiversity and others. At night we were in a tourist home whose hall was sufficiently large to accommodate all of us. I am happy for one thing that I would not be totally left out for the photography part as Shaneesh is carrying a digital camera and much willing to share the photographs (Oh, I miss my camera though!).
9 Sept’05, Day was mostly dedicated to travelling. Setting off early from the Tourist lodge, Shri Krishna tourist home, we five (Not quite though as Famous Five) headed for Edakkal Caves (Malayalam Edakkal = In between the gap). These caves forms an important part of tourist destinations circuit of Wayanad district and I felt its’ worth paying a visit when I am passing by so close. “With at least three distinct sets of Pteroglyphs, the earliest thought to date back over 3000 years, it is assumed that the Edakkal caves had been inhabited at various stages in history” (The Wayanad Explorer Hand Book).
It was quite a climb as we ascended for about 25 minutes and reached the entrance of the cave. To add a little spice to the moment the cave greeted us with a gloomy padlock hanging on the front gate complaining about its loneliness. We realised that we have arrived much earlier to the official time of opening the cave. It was indeed a disappointment but I was unwilling to get away with it and so I jumped over the gate to at least have a view of what lies inside. Once I intruded the front gate and passed through a series of crude rock cut iron-reinforced stairs forming steep and lean passageways, I was amazed to see how far it extends inside. However, when I confronted another huge iron gate, which was truly impasse I realised that I have to come here again to see what lies beyond. Retreating towards the main gate with heavy footsteps I heard some whistling and sounds that I quickly recognised as some sort of signals meant for me. I realised that the person in charge has arrived and the rest of the team members are perplexed as what to do, if the gates are opened and I am spotted inside it could be a serious matter of trespassing a government property and I could be in great trouble. But nothing of that sort happened and I jumped out in time escaping any official action upon me but not without bruises on my hands as I took less than 30 sec to jump 12 feet high Iron Gate. So moments later I made my second visit to the cave, with a valid ticket in hand and an informed guide accompanying the entourage. (Pic 7)
The cave is believed to be from Neolithic times and has subsequently served as a canvas for expression of ideas and beliefs of many civilisations that inhabited the area. The cave depicted carvings (etching) composed purely of geometric figures (Triangles, Squares & Rectangles) done with crude stone axes. Also somewhat newer additions has finely curved lines describing well shaped female figures illustrating the prominent contours and curves, which according to the guide would not have been possible without a metal axe, suggesting the development and knowledge of people of that age. A large number of human figures, animals and birds could be easily recognised on the hard rock but still it extends to the imagination of a person who may decipher any number of images out of these criss-cross wedged furrows superimposed over each other. There were few small inscriptions in Tamil-Brahmi Script, one of them is of particular interest, ‘Man who killed the Tiger’. I believe this was a statement of utmost bravery and pride and has nothing to do with a feeling of remorse and guilt that drove him to the remote confines of this cave.
We found the Assistant Wildlife Warden, Tholpetty Range at his office and while filling up the questionnaire he openly discussed the various issues encompassing wildlife management in his range as well as in state as a whole. After filling up the questionnaire we left to visit the ancient riverside temple of Thirunelli, which according to Explorer Handbook is one of the finest specimens of classical Kerala Temple Architecture (Pic 8).
The temple was undoubtedly impressively located, particularly so its old architecture was complemented with the all green backdrop of ascending Brahmagiri range. We could not pay our visit to the inner sanctum as it was lunchtime and as everywhere else in India, such decorum is to be strictly maintained here. We then left to see a small stream flowing close to the temple, interestingly named as Papanasini, where a ritual dip is believed to wash one of all worldly sins! I was least tempted for a dip but definitely get rid of some of the sins washing my ‘dirty hands’ and standing in flowing water watching the energetic stream rushing along my toes taking away all that I washed.
After having lunch, I made calls to the respective Wildlife Wardens to fix up the next meeting, which eventually led to cancellation of the trip to Aralam WLS and straight we headed to Palaghat where a meeting was fixed for next day i.e. 10th Sept, 2005. We reached the place little late at 11:30 pm and checked in ‘Orma Tourist Home’. (
Malayalam Orma = Memory).
10th Sept, 2005. We reached at Wood House on schedule time and were greeted by Mr. Chandrasekharan, (WW, Silent Valley NP). He took no time in completing the questionnaire and we were done for the day. Looking at the options available we decided not to visit Silent Valley NP and started off for Parambikulam WLS (PWLS). On the way while entering Tamil Nadu (TN), we got a reward for carelessness or rather foolishness of our driver, Shajithlal, who was not carrying his license and we were handed over a fine receipt of Rs 640/-. We crossed the Annamalai WLS (TN State) and had food at Top Slip before entering the Parmbikulam WLS, hailed as the Jewel of Western Ghats. However, the experience with Wildlife Warden (WW) at Parambikulam was not one would treasure as sweet memory. I think as it was a holiday he was taken aback with the feeling that it is an encroachment of his private time and he directed to leave the questionnaire and proceed to next place, as he could not see any point for having a personal meeting and discussion while filling up the questionnaire. I left the questionnaire, my address and a note of apology for the inconvenience caused to him for my unexpected visit.
Leaving PWLS behind, we left for the next and I suppose the last scheduled meeting in this trip with Mr. J.A.Nirmal Kumar, WW, Peechi-Vazhani WLS and Chimmony WLS. Hari and Vinayan left for Palaghat and we four headed towards Trissur. I called Pramod (Another friend hailing form Kerala, whom I first met in Bhopal) and made arrangements so that I can meet him at his place. Earlier I had kept it as a surprise for him but as Nahar abridged me that my trip to Kerala is no secret to Pramod anymore, I considered it wise to consult him as how to reach his place.
Finally, before the clock striked 10, I reached Pramod’s house, and was greeted by him and his parents. It was so strange and unbelievable that I was sitting with him and talking as if we had returned from a usual late night dinner at Indian Coffee House, Bhopal. I showed him the photographs of my visit to Jammu and Kashmir and Ladakh, this summer. We talked for a while until the tiredness of day’s journey started taking over me and we said good night to each other.
11th Sept, 2005. I left Pramod’s place at 8 am after having a fulsome breakfast of steaming idlis cooked by his mother. I think I am fond of this south Indian cuisine for one particular reason, it is predominantly steam cooked and uses minimal amount of oil.
We reached the house of Benny where Varun and Shaneesh had stayed for the night. The house had a good amount of impressive wood panelling and ceiling, the shine and finish suggested that it is most probably Teak. Here I saw 3 pairs of ‘love birds’, those beautiful colourful creatures that are most popular pets all over the world. It was so satisfying to see how he was instilling and instigating the concern and care for nature in his daughter at the right age.
After calling WW, Peechi I fixed up a meeting for next day and we decided to leave for Peechi but not before visiting the old and famous Vadakkunathan Kshetram Temple and one of the two zoos in Kerala. The Temple was a fine example of the traditional style of temple architecture where males could only enter ‘half naked’, removing all sort of clothing from upper body. This was mainly a Shiva temple where I recorded an oddity. The idols of Shiva and Parvati were so placed that both were facing in just opposite directions with their backs touching. This mutually divergent looking posture of Shiva and Parvati could not be seen anywhere in Northern India, at least not to my knowledge. After Temple we reached the zoo, to witness wildlife devoid of its wild settings. We saw a many mammals, reptiles and birds. Of particular interest were animals, which were bruised, amputated, sick and definitely unhappy (Pic. 9), except for one hen that enjoyed its food in the big cage totally unaware that soon it will be eaten by an hitherto unknown predator, a Python.
We reached Peechi in time and booked the rest house. Visiting the dam was an enthralling experience, where we witnessed the immense force and swiftness with which the dammed water was leaving the altar of dam. Standing just above the point of this transition where one side had the calm, clear and gentle waters while on the other side it had a power of thunder and rapidity of a storm, one can feel the transformation rising up along one’s feet to the mind. One lesson was clear, how one could remain calm and complacent until the final moment when s/he has to deliver its best, with full energy and alacrity. Soon we came back to our car and Varun & Shaneesh prepared to leave. I knew that now onwards I will not have any photos of the trip.
After bidding good-bye and extending all my thanks to Varun for accompanying me to this trip and assisting me in conducting this survey, we moved in the rest house. It was a big government bungalow type accommodation with decrepit plumbing in bathroom and unclean sheets, but somehow the location of window overlooking the reservoir kind of compensated for this gap. Although we (Shajith and me) were not comfortable in any common language we tried to communicate and explained each other’s language. Had simple basic food and then called home before we went to bed freely without any resolutions for getting up early.
12th Sept, 2005. First time during this trip I had a relaxing long night sleep and when I woke up in the morning I was fully refreshed. I reached the office of WW on time and as I was introduced to Mr. Nirmal Kumar, I had all the plans of leaving the place quite early and to arrive in Trivendrum early by one day. However, Mr. Nirmal was very different from the others I met during this trip. He openly stated how critical he was of the NGOs, which operate from the air-conditioned offices located in the capital without having a slightest idea of what conservation meant on ground. I too was not fully prepared to properly tackle his responses, particularly when he raised the question of futility of such exercises when Govt. pays no heed to the recommendations made by the non government bodies, I had a hard time finding good answer to him. However after this initial swashbuckling beginning he dealt with all the questions in great detail and discussed many issues and aspects of Biodiversity Conservation at large. I spent almost three and a half hrs with him and finally when I left his office I realised the magnitude of responsibility that lies on me to produce a commendable report after putting in so much of effort and time. I will try to give in my best.
We had out lunch at some midway restaurant and picked up Hari, Siva’s brother in law, from Ernakulam. Hari is a sergeant in the Logistics wing of Air Force and has been posted in northern India, away from Kerala since past 13 years, hence very fluent in Hindi. After so many days I got a chance to flex my tongue muscles for speaking Hindi. He was a talkative fellow and we chatted on various different topics before we reached Siva’s place at 10:30 night. We had a rich home cooked dinner before leaving for Trivendrum, where I checked in Hotel Shree Navrathana, for the next 3 days of my stay in the city.
13th Sept, 2005. I woke up late and lazily prepared for visiting the WWF State office. But as Sajithlal was expected to come with the taxi bill receipt I went to Internet café to check my mails, where I didn’t find anything unusual and expected. When Sajith arrived we went to office, where I collected the photocopies of the Management Plans of other PAs and had my lunch with the office staff. I called up Mr. Suthing for a brief meeting but realised he was on holiday. Realising that nothing much is left to do at office I left for hotel, and from there I went to see Nahar’s mother and sister, Shahina. It was a brief visit and I wanted to return early, but I was only able to leave after having basic but delicious food cooked by Shahina.
I reached my room at 9 pm and tuned in the television for Sandra Bullock’s, ‘Two Weeks Notice’. I first saw this movie in Paris with a friend, which brought back all the memories of great time we had together. I enjoyed the movie and somehow found that some bits and pieces bear a distant similarity to my life (Very funny, isn’t it?)
14th Sept, 2005. I had planned earlier to visit Siva’s place to enjoy extravagant Onam Sadhya, a meal with at least 20-22 different varieties of curries, chutnies, vegetables, disserts etc. but he called me and postponed it for 15th, the day of Thiru Onam. It made me to leave for Kanya Kumari (Cape Cumorin), the southernmost tip of mainland India. It is also the confluence of three seas, the Indian Ocean, Bay of Bengal and the Arabian Sea. I was filled with excitement as this will almost complete my north-south travel across the country and that too in the short span of less than three months. I feel happy and fortunate to be able to do this. I reached Kanya Kumari at 04: 15 pm, precisely 15 minutes after the last ferry has left for the Vivekanand Memorial, the rock where Swami Vivekanand meditated in 1892 before setting out as one of the India’s most important religious crusaders. I was a little disappointed but could do nothing except to watch the memorial and the huge impressive rock cut idol of Saint Thiruvalluar at distance.
After visiting the Gandhi memorial I sat very close to the waves. For almost 2 hrs I had an intense session of communication with the water. Each receding wave took my doubts and queries to the Seas and while advancing towards the shore, they carried back a message for me. I was happy that it was one to one dialogue and no third person was involved so that I can be free, honest and transparent. I realised that water, moving water, calls me. Be it the shores of Tenerife Island, Spain or flowing stream at Alchi, Leh or the breaking waves of Kovalam, Kerala or the holy trinity of Kanya Kumari, Tamil Nadu, I feel an attraction like an insect for a flare!
And more so as it’s always been a very satisfying and yielding effort, an approach that has quenched lot of my doubts and refreshed my soul, an act sufficiently invigorating to energise my mind and body.
Very far away, probably what one calls horizon, the Sun went down; very calmly it drowned beneath the waters, without a slightest show of unwillingness Sun embraced the truth, the fact that nothing is here for ever, things change and changes for good. The message was clear - a fresh dawn is awaiting; a new beginning is in the offing.
15th Sept, 2005. Thiru Onam, the state festival of Kerala, and final day of my trip. I did the final preparations before I left for Siva Kumar’s place to enjoy the feast, served on a big Banana leaf. I reached his house at 12:30 pm and soon after we were served the food. I counted there were 23 items in total, sufficient to stimulate even the most stubborn of the taste buds one can have. The food had a full range of delicacies catering to all sorts of taste one could crave. I also realised that eating itself is a highly intense exercise involving a team-work sort of engagement between us on the table and the women folk who were busy serving us. The sheer number of dishes calls for a perfect order and way of serving to have the long lasting tantalising affect deep inside the gullet, almost touching to soul. I think I enjoyed the act of eating, as never before, without caring for numerous watchful eyes!
Finally I came back to my room, did the final pack up, and after watching an hour of National Geographic channel, I left hotel for Railway station at Thampanoor. I find my seat confirmed and that too I am alone in my compartment except one fellow who was going home. I bid a final adieu to Trivendrum and set for a long journey ahead.
The train journey back to New Delhi actually provided me time to complete this journal. And I really enjoyed typing these sentences while the train fluttered the wind outside, advancing through the Konkan railway, proud for its numerous bridges and tunnels, slicing the green clad mountainous terrain of Konkan coast. I have a satisfying feeling while I bring this travel journal to a close.
It was on 6 Nov'05, on my way back to New Delhi after celebrating Deepawali at home, that I got a chance to visit the capital city of Gujarat. Midway through my trip, I started scribbing these notes while waiting for my lunch to be served at a restaurant and completed them on board the flight to New Delhi. Look what I found there....amalgamation of old traditions, art, architecture, religion, rhetoric. Everything existing in the same plane... fast and slow, ancient and modern...past, present and future...
